Paris Encore 2022 May Day and Monday

Sunday, May 1. It’s Labor Day in France. We were told there would be a demonstration in Place de la Nation, near here. We walked by it late morning and saw some preparations for a gathering - blockages on the street and certain areas taped off but didn’t see any protesters. Later in the day there was a lot of police car activity in the area. We saw, on the news, that some of the peaceful protests in Paris and elsewhere had turned violent, and tear gas was used to disperse the crowds. This wasn’t just Labor Day in France, but it looks like most countries in the world celebrated either on Sunday, May 1, or on Monday, May 2 this year.

We had lunch in the neighborhood - good moules-frites (mussels and fries), which is a common dish here. Most of the shops were closed. The grocery store was open, at least for part of the day, and we noticed that the alcohol aisle was blocked off. We weren’t sure if that was the standard on Sundays, or if it had something to do with the holiday.

On every corner, there were people selling little bouquets of lily-of-the-valley. Muguets des bois in French. May 1 is also known as La Fête du Muguets. In France, and especially in Paris, the tradition of giving bouquets to loved ones goes back to 1561, when King Charles IX was given a bouquet as a gift.

The next day we were ready to hit the ground running, or at least strolling somewhat quickly.

Our Metro map will be worn to tatters at the end of our 2 weeks. Each day we strategize how to get to places we want to see, and how to combine a few sights in one trip. Metro tickets are inexpensive at 1,69 euros for each person, each way, so it’s a very affordable way to get around. If we were here longer we’d get Metro passes, which would save a little time and money.

First on our list was a visit to Shakespeare and Company bookstore. From the Metro stop, we walked a few blocks to the store, passing Square René-Viviani on the way. The flowers were beautiful here, as they have been everywhere. Roses are in bloom all over Paris. There are so many multi-use city parks or squares, and always lots of people, families, pets enjoying them.

Roses and tulips don’t bloom simultaneously in our neck of the woods!

Shakespeare and Company is an English-language bookstore that’s been in existence in Paris since the 1920s, although it started at a different location. It’s a funky warren of rooms, with a few couches, a piano and a desk with an old typewriter, in alcoves here-and-there. In the past (and maybe still?) starving writers, poets and philosophers might sleep here. There are books from floor to ceiling, some used, some new. In earthquake country this would be a dangerous place. 

Tour buses drop hoards of visitors off to look around. Some buy, but most just look. We were determined to buy something here and look what I found! 

Rick Steves’ headquarters is just 45 minutes away from our house in Washington, but I needed an updated version of his Paris guidebook anyway, so why not get it here?

From there we walked the block or 2 over to see how Notre Dame was doing. It still is under major reconstruction, after the fire on April 15, 2019. There are temporary walls all around it, keeping visitors away from dangerous construction materials and heavy equipment, and posters showing updates of the renovation process are on the walls. Sadly, the gardens and Deportation Memorial are blocked off too.

We’re not very good at selfies!

Notre Dame is on an island in the Seine, Île de la Cité, and I hoped to find a restaurant on the island that I’d been to before. Sadly, I left my notes at the apartment, so I couldn’t find it! We found a place on the next island, Île St. Louis, called Pain d’Épices, translation gingerbread, where we had a nice lunch. Rick was on a search for seared duck breast, and found it here, with a nice orange sauce. 

Our next destination was Rue Crémieux, called “the most colorful street in Paris”. We made our way over to it from the island, passing a busy boat harbor, and walking by an area with a few tents. We haven’t seen many people living on the streets here, but it is known to be a problem in Paris.

It’s hard to see in the picture, but the building in the distance looks like its losing the top section.

We found Rue Crémieux in a busy business area of mostly modern buildings. It’s just a single block between two streets, and the houses were built in 1865.

We were surprised that the colors were so subtle. It was still very quaint, with a cobblestone lane, and flowers and plants in front of each house. If you do a Google search on Rue Crémieux, many photos have been colorized to make this look more dramatic. 

So, with the help of our Metro map, we figured out how to get home. I’m always surprised to find out how close we really are!