Our house

Our house
Blue Heron Hill with Mount Baker in the background

Sunday, October 20, 2019

Belem, near Lisbon

Nancy left before dawn to catch her flight home. We were all sad that she had to leave before we did. Since we only had 2 full days in Lisbon, we decided to go out to Belem to see the monastery and the monument to the explorers. We were hoping to catch the trolley from the Praca do Comercio, not too far from our apartment, but when we got there the whole area was blocked off for some kind of footrace. So we made our way down to the Cais do Sodre train station and took the 10-minute train ride to Belem.

Gail and Pam in the Praca do Comercio

Rick Steves' guidebook highly recommends the National Coach Museum. We were skeptical. Would it be an 18th century version of an old car museum? Fun, but not at the top of our list. We should trust Rick Steves by now! He hasn't steered us wrong in 30 years! We were absolutely floored by the coaches on display. Beautiful, ornate, works of art they were. Of course, only for wealthy aristocrats or businessmen and their families. I posted a few pictures on Facebook and joked that the only consolation from the perspective of the commonfolk was that the suspension was probably really bad.







The coach of Maria Ana of Austria

























So plain, compared to the rest! Is this like the Ford Fiesta of coaches?

After our fun visit to the coach museum, we were on the lookout for lunch.
We found a little place along the main street in town, A Padaria Portuguesa, which was a bakery and lunch counter with seating inside, and there we had a light lunch before continuing on.


We didn't eat at this place, but pondered the fish display in the window
Our next stop was the Monastery of Jeronimos. Pam and I toured the church and cloisters while Janet and Gail sat outside in the pleasant sunshine. All three of the others had visited here some years ago, and they thought it was important for me to see it, enough that they'd allocate an afternoon to go back. The church of the monastery is huge, and very ornate, as all of the churches we've visited in Portugal seem to be. One unique feature I've noticed in several of the churches is a glass enclosed statue of the body of Christ, laying as though he was just taken down from the cross, below an altar.

The cloisters of the monastery












This church is famous for the elephant statues inside. Elephants were thought to be a symbol of power at the time this church was built, and the tombs of 2 kings and 2 queens are supported here by elephants. The tomb of Vasco da Gama is here too. The church survived a powerful earthquake in 1755, and presents one of the few interiors in Lisbon pre-dating that event.






After visiting the church and cloisters, we rejoined Gail and Janet to go see the Monument to the Discoveries nearby. It was built in 1960 for the 500th anniversary of the death of Henry the Navigator. The monument is a very imposing structure, and it was a nice day, so we got photos of it from all angles. The figures are Henry, at the helm, and other great navigators, sailors, explorers, and even the financiers, artists and writers who glorified the expeditions. The only female, of all the people depicted, was the mother of Henry. As far as I'm concerned, she gets credit for the whole thing!






I think that's Henry's mother, second from the left





We could have eaten a little frozen yogurt at this point!

We headed back to town, and our apartment, with one critical stop on the way. Gail wanted us to try an affogato, a dish of vanilla gelato with a shot of espresso on top. We found a place that served them, and all tried one. They were so delicious, and, as Gail would say, To Die For!



Dinner was at a touristy place on one of the pedestrian streets in the main part of town.

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