Day 2 in Bayeux

We had another wonderful breakfast this morning at The Hotel de Sainte Croix.  In addition to the daily croissant, baguette, coffee and tea, we had little puffs of pastry with sugar crystals on the outside, a buttery cake, a crepe with caramel sauce, and little glasses of yogurt with strawberries.  It's true that we're getting more carbs than we need, and not too much protein, but I'm a carb lover, so no complaints from me!

We walked over to see the Bayeux tapestry, near the cathedral in the center of town. The tapestry is 70 yards long, wool embroidered on linen, and thought to have been made after the Battle of Hastings in 1066.  It was hung around the nave of the cathedral for many years.  I thought I read somewhere that it was discovered in a store room in the cathedral and hadn't been seen in some centuries.  Luckily, it was stored in such a way that it didn't deteriorate over the years.  Some of the end of the tapestry was removed in the past and has never been found.

Small piece of the 70-yard-long Bayeux tapestry

Picture courtesy of Wikipedia

They have a great museum explaining the scenes on the tapestry, and in true propaganda form, the enemy is depicted with long shaggy hair and beards, and the local heroes are clean-shaven and neat looking.

We tried to visit the cathedral, but Mass was being said, so no visitors allowed.  Here's a picture of the outside though.  Note the flying buttresses.

Bayeux cathedral, built in the 11th century

Next stop was the Memorial Museum in Caen.  We stopped on the way and bought some sandwiches at a boulangerie.  We spread out our picnic tablecloth and enjoyed our lunch outside before entering the museum.

Another of our typical picnics of baguettes, ham, cheese, tomatoes, nectarines and, of course, wine!

Entry to the museum today was free, because of some special event.  What luck!

The Memorial Museum in Caen used various media to present another moving documentary of the suffering of the local people, the resistance movement during the war, and the casualties suffered by citizens and fighters alike. 

I've been to Normandy three times in my life and each time it gets harder and sadder.  The loss of precious life, the struggle of the common people, and the young soldiers lost to this insanity just gets harder to look at and understand. 

Outside of the Memorial Museum

Back at the hotel in Bayeux we saw a band playing in the square in front of the hotel.  We went over to watch what was happening, and saw a group of young people waving American, British and French flags.  What could this be about?  There was also a group of bike riders hanging around the perimeter of the musical entertainment.  Rick and Tim talked to a gentleman in the crowd who explained that this was a yearly event celebrating the liberation of Bayeux and Eindhoven, Belgium during World War II.  There are festivities in Bayeux at the beginning, a bike ride between Bayeux and Eindhoven which takes a few days, and then festivities in Eindhoven at the end.  A torch is carried from one city to the other.  The yearly celebration started in 1945 and continued for 25 years.  It was suspended for some years and then resurrected.

Band concert and flag ceremony in the town square

Some in our group are first-time visitors to France, and one had some apprehension about how Americans would be treated here.  Witnessing this group and hearing about their yearly tribute to the allies and commemoration of their liberation had a substantive and very positive affect.  We all came away feeling good about the relationship that is being fostered.

Before dinner we had just enough time to do some laundry at the local laundromat.  There was a centralized pay area for the machines.  A young French woman watching us try to decipher the instructions said she had trouble with it the first time too!

Oh great.  Another washing machine to figure out!

Dinner was at La Rapiere, and we had a third great meal in the town of Bayeux.  The fresh oysters were wonderful as a first course and each subsequent course was beautifully presented.

Foie gras and toast

Whitefish in a butter herb sauce, served with potatoes au gratin, squash puree, vegetable mousse

 

Apple tart at La Rapiere

One of the waterwheels in Bayeux, lit up at night